A couple of weekends ago I went with V, O, Ma'moun, and Dalool to Sebastiya, which is a small farming village just northwest of Nablus. As soon as we entered the outskirts of the village we started to see beautiful, vintage tractors dotting the roadsides. O has a bit of a fascination about them and admits that he would move to Sebastiya just for the tractors! As it was Friday, the town was quiet as we drove through slowly trying to find our way to the Roman ruins. Something I find beautiful about Palestinian men is that they are not afraid to roll down the window and ask for directions. In turn, the "director," as it were, acts as if we are all old chums and leans in close as he points and directs us where to go. I believe on our way to and through Sebastiya I think we stopped at least 3 times to make sure that we were going in the right way.
The path leads up to the Acropolis through olive and fruit tree plantations, and leads to the steps of the temple of Augustus, built in -25 by Herod. Before it is a large square courtyard where the alter was. At the top of the steps, on the floor of what was the “cella” of the temple, elements of Doric columns are scattered. The large room was surrounded by two long hallways. To the south was a building with three rooms, the use of which has not yet been determined by archeologists. But under the temple a neighborhood of the Hellenistic city was discovered, under which was the palace of the kings of Israel. Here is where the famous ivories that are kept at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem were found. Going around the digs on the southern side, we notice the bases of the columns that once lined the main street of the roman city, and that date back to the reign of Septimius Severus. We quickly reach a small church built by the crusaders and dedicated to Saint John Baptist. It was built between the 11th and 12th centuries, on the crypt where according to Jean Phocas (1185), the head of the Precursor was found.
We arrived at our destination and the following description found on http://www.nablusguide.com/ sums the place up pretty nicely:
We enter the site by the Roman forum, a large artificial quadrangle built in the Herodian era, on the end of which are the remnants of the civil basilica, the shape of which is visible by the few still standing columns. North of the forum, from the platform behind the cafeteria there is a plunging view on what used to be the race track a few columns beneath show us where the gates stood. A path, leaving the north end of the basilica leads up to the acropolis. We quickly arrive to the Roman theatre, maybe built over the Herodian theatre behind which can be seen a large round semi-cylindrical tower. This ruin is one of the most beautiful Hellenistic monuments of Palestine. Built around -320 it is stuck in a Israelite wall and connected to a Hellenistic wall which was part of the fortifications of the acropolis built during Alexander the Great’s era . From the seats one has a beautiful view over the hills of Samaria.
The path leads up to the Acropolis through olive and fruit tree plantations, and leads to the steps of the temple of Augustus, built in -25 by Herod. Before it is a large square courtyard where the alter was. At the top of the steps, on the floor of what was the “cella” of the temple, elements of Doric columns are scattered. The large room was surrounded by two long hallways. To the south was a building with three rooms, the use of which has not yet been determined by archeologists. But under the temple a neighborhood of the Hellenistic city was discovered, under which was the palace of the kings of Israel. Here is where the famous ivories that are kept at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem were found. Going around the digs on the southern side, we notice the bases of the columns that once lined the main street of the roman city, and that date back to the reign of Septimius Severus. We quickly reach a small church built by the crusaders and dedicated to Saint John Baptist. It was built between the 11th and 12th centuries, on the crypt where according to Jean Phocas (1185), the head of the Precursor was found.
I can't describe how beautiful and peaceful this place was and we had it all to ourselves! The view was so lovely overlooking the hills and villages of Palestine. We even spotted some ancient olive trees that were more than likely from the Roman era -- evident by their large, knotty trunks and branches. Old pieces of pottery were everywhere we went and after doing a little digging, which I probably could have done all day, we found even more. I tried to imagine what is was like in its glory days, with its opulent marble, paved roads, and bustling courtyards.
I am ever surprised by all there is to see in Palestine. I so badly want the world to know of these beautiful destinations -- Sebastiya, Nablus, St. George's Monastery, Wadi Qelt, Hisham's Palace, etc. I want the world to know of the hospitable nature of the Palestinians. I want the world to know that Palestine is not scary; that it is surprisingly lovely and full of things to see and places to visit. I want the world to know that it is ok to come here and that their lives would be greatly enriched if ever they did.
I am ever surprised by all there is to see in Palestine. I so badly want the world to know of these beautiful destinations -- Sebastiya, Nablus, St. George's Monastery, Wadi Qelt, Hisham's Palace, etc. I want the world to know of the hospitable nature of the Palestinians. I want the world to know that Palestine is not scary; that it is surprisingly lovely and full of things to see and places to visit. I want the world to know that it is ok to come here and that their lives would be greatly enriched if ever they did.
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