Day 8 - O and V decided to take mom and I to Bethlehem for the afternoon. We went there via the "back way" because Palestinians aren't allowed to take the direct route through Jerusalem. Instead we had had to maneuver to the eastern stretches of the city and weave our way up and down the ridiculously steep and narrow roads of Wadi Nar (Fire Valley) to reach Beit Sahour and finally Bethlehem. We parked at the far end of Star Street and walked along this ancient part of the city which ends at Nativity Square. I love the feel of Bethlehem. It seems that it is so peaceful, the people so friendly, and the architecture so amazingly authentic. We visited the Church of the Nativity and I was finally able to see where O and V were married. I can't even fathom getting married in such a revered and holy location -- it must have been (dare I say) quite magical, to say the least. We made a quick stop of the Milk Grotto before heading to dinner at the "Tent Restaurant," which was a huge, local place well known for its barbecued meats. It overlooked one of the lovely (but not so much) Israeli settlements. After a gloriously fulfilling meal of Arabic salads, khubez, limon ma nana and meat we went to.... wait for it... a classical piano concert on the other side of town. The pianist was amazingly talented and everyone was appreciative of her playing in Palestine. After the concert we stopped by Solomon's Pools which were hard to fully appreciate at night, but were nonetheless breathtaking in their enormity and antiquity. Before we headed home we made a stop at Jacir's Palace, which is now the Intercontinental Hotel, for a coffee and night cap. Overall a fabulous and fully booked day!

Day 9 - The next morning my friend, A, had booked my mother and I a tour at the City of David in Jerusalem. So we headed out early that morning to take the bus from Ramallah to the Old City of Jerusalem. Usually when I take the bus internationals, women with children, and those over the age of 55 can stay on the bus at the checkpoint, rather than walk through; however for some reason that day they were making everyone get off. When we got to the "corral," which I call because it largely resembles a cattle corral that one might see on a farm, the line for the passport control was incredibly long and didn't seem to be moving. After waiting a while mom and I realized that there was no way that we could make it to the scheduled tour at the City of David on time so we decided to scrap it, reschedule, and head back into Ramallah for rest of the morning and afternoon. In the evening we went to H's house, where his wife had cooked a wonderful, eclectic meal of American style pizza and Palestinian wariq al-ainib and kousa mahashi (stuffed grape leaves and zucchini). Holy deliciousness. Luckily they have a ping pong table so I was able to work off a little bit of the luscious food I consumed. Being with the Bakirs is a delightful experience. They are so happy and loving and just a joy to be around. I can't get enough of them!

Day 10 - My mother and I had an interesting experience coming back into Israel. At passport control (before we had picked up our luggage) we were interrogated and made to feel like criminals. They basically told me that I had "outstayed my welcome" because I had been in Israel for 6 months prior. Because of this, and because I suspect they believed me to be something I was not, they only gave us 5 week visas, rather than the usual 3-month tourist visas they give people upon arrival into their country. When this happened I was shocked and really didn't know what I was going to do. The thought of having to leave within 5 weeks rather than 6 months was devestating. I must say that I am in blessed hands though because the university jumped right on assisting me attempt to obtain an extension. I spent this day in Nablus with the Ministry of the Interior to ensure that I had all the necessary documents in order. The day went something like this:

• go to the university, pick up Abu Mohamed, one of the university's security personnel who didn't say a word to my mother and I the entire time there, but nonetheless made us feel extremely safe and secure having him there
• go the PA's Ministry of the Interior, 2nd floor - walk into smoke filled rooms - go down to the ground floor, get pictures taken, pay a fee - go back to the 2nd floor, wait while they finish their breakfast - go next door and up to the 2nd floor where the bank was, take a number, pay another fee - go back to the Ministry of the Interior, witness massive amounts of stamping and writing in Arabic, Hebrew and English - say goodbye to my passport
• go back to the university, drop off Abu Mohamed, yell 'shukran' (thank you) out the window
• go to Abu Sair sweets for some lovely kanafeh, which was invented in Nablus and which mom actually ended up liking this time... I guess it was more authentic this time

Oh Palestine, how I love thee - the chaotic organization, the savory sweets, the peaceful anarchy - I wouldn't have you any other way.