Finally Settled in Ramallah

Eiffel Sweets in Ramallah

I am finally settled into my new home in Ramallah. I ended up staying in Nablus for about 3 weeks. Although I was glad that I was able to experience Nablus, I am happy to be out of there. My first few days in Ramallah were spent in a hotel about 2 blocks away from my office. On my first weekend I decided to walk down to the separation barrier to take some pictures. About an hour and 5 hills later I was there. I walked on the dirt road that runs right along side of the wall. There were 2 boys sitting along side it listening to music and smoking cigarettes. I asked them if I could take their picture, but they said no. I was disppointed for it would have been a perfect photo op... but I respected their privacy. Most of the wall is covered with simple phrases and sayings in a number of languages. Most are political statements, but some are advertisements or well wishes to friends and family.

I moved into my flat less than a week after my arrival in Ramallah. It is in the area of Al Masyoun near the Palestinian Legislative Council and the building is shared with 3 other families -- including my landlord. My second night there I was invited to my neighbor's house for iftar (nightly breaking of the Ramadan fast). The people I met were many of the "elite" of Ramallah -- journalists, art historians, etc. They were all smoking and drinking to their hearts delight. At some point guessing everyone's age became the topic of the evening. As usual I was thought of as far younger than I am. One woman said that she thought that I couldn't be older than 18. I appreciate that I look younger; however sometimes I am not sure whether to take offense or be flattered.

The weeks following this were spent getting to know the ins and outs of Ramallah. At first I took a taxi to and from work; however once I figured out where everything was I started walking and have been doing so since. It takes about 15-20 minutes for me to walk to work and 30 to walk back home because I take the "scenic route" through the city center. The downtown area is wonderful... so bustling and full of life. I love to go down there and just people watch and smell the air -- which consists of the sweet scent of nargila drifting outside from the coffee shops, and the savoury scent of falafel and kebab from the corner stands. One night during Ramadan I was walking around and I suddently heard the sound of cymbols and drums. I followed the sound to what looked like a small procession of people in the street who were holding torches, playing drums while dancing and singing. I wasn't sure what was happening; however I of course followed the procession until its end a few blocks later. That same evening there was a live performance in the street by an Islamic singing group. They had a side street blocked off and chairs set up. I stood there and drank my Arabic coffee in awe of the fact that I was able to witness this.