Day Trip to Jerusalem

At the end of September I was off of work for 9 days because of Eid. I decided to take advantage and so I rented a car and went adventuring around Israel. The day that I rented my car I headed to Jerusalem because I had to stop by the Centre for Jerusalem Studies in the Old City. I took a regular taxi to the Qalandiya checkpoint and from there took public transportation into East Jerusalem. It ws my first time going through a "proper" checkpoint and admittedly I was a bit intimidated as I headed towards the entrance. I first had to walk through what could only be deemed as a "corral" and then I saw a line forming at a controlled gate. In front of me was a Palestinian woman and her 3 young children. They all proceeded through the gate and showed their ID cards to the men behind the bullet proof window. They were denied entry and turned back around with their heads hanging low. After they buzzed me through I had to set my purse on a conveyor (just like the ones that they have at airports) and slide my passport into a tiny slot to be reviewed. I had no problems and after I collected my purse I was buzzed through yet another gate. I had no idea what to expect on the other side; however I spotted the queued busses and headed that direction. I inquired as to whether or not they went to Damascus Gate and I was told that they all do.

I got onto the #18 bus and for a mere 5 shekels I was on my way. Seated next to me was a couple with their 2 children (one a new born and one no more than 2 years old). At some point during the journey into Jerusalem the 2 year old (who was being helf by her father) threw up. The mother (who was holding the newborn) asked me in Arabic if I had a cloth or tissue. Although I couldn't understand what she said, I knew exactly what she needed and found a tissue in my purse to give to her. This wasn't enough to clean up the mess so the father went to the front to ask the driver if he had anything to help. He did; however he gave the father a very hard time about it. At some point the 2 year old wanted her mommy, but her hands were full because of the newborn (who was sound asleep). The mother then turned to me and said something in Arabic while holding out the baby. I realized that she wanted me to hold him and I gladly obliged. The baby was the sweetest thing sleeping soundly in my arms as we made our way through the bumpy streets of Jerusalem. When we arrived at the end of the line, I gave the baby back to his mother. She thanked me and I could see that she was extremely grateful. After it was over I couldn't help but think about what a precious moment it was. Even though we didn't speak the same language, it wasn't necessary because I knew what she needed and we were able to communicate in complete sincerity.

I started headed down Saladin Street in East Jerusalem when it started pouring down rain. I found an awning to stand under until it passed. What I find amazing about the rain storms here is how quickly they come and quickly they go. No one owns and umbrella, but they just deal with it. The couple of times that I have been caught in the rain it seems to change the atmosphere completely. The people seem more happy and apt to laugh when it is coming down hard not to mention more chatty! After the rain cleared up I headed into the Old City. I had studied my map hard the previous day in hopes that I didn't get lost; however the Old City has an uncanny ability to disorientate you while you are strolling along its narrow streets. I knew where I needed to go so I asked people who looked like locals if I was headed in the right direction. After a couple of wrong turns I ended up in the Suq-al Qatannin -- which is where I needed to be. Score! The Old City is unreal and I think I could spend hours in there; however I think I will wait until the weather is a bit cooler to do that!


Herod's Gate

After an hour or so in the Old City I made a few phone calls to see if I could find a place that had a car available for me to rent. Luckily the first place I tried did and it was within walking distance. Before I picked up my car I went into the American Colony Hotel's bookstore, which I had heard was fabulous. They did have some good books (academic as well as novels); however they were a bit overpriced so I left quietly without purchasing a thing. Despite this, I was able to pick up a colloquial English/Arabic book down on Saladin St. for pretty cheap so I was happy with that.

I was so happy when I got into my rental car for the first time because I realized that I miss driving so much! I admit I was a little scared of driving in Jerusalem; however I just thought of it as an adventure and with my handy street atlas was able to make my way back to Ramallah.

Finally Settled in Ramallah

Eiffel Sweets in Ramallah

I am finally settled into my new home in Ramallah. I ended up staying in Nablus for about 3 weeks. Although I was glad that I was able to experience Nablus, I am happy to be out of there. My first few days in Ramallah were spent in a hotel about 2 blocks away from my office. On my first weekend I decided to walk down to the separation barrier to take some pictures. About an hour and 5 hills later I was there. I walked on the dirt road that runs right along side of the wall. There were 2 boys sitting along side it listening to music and smoking cigarettes. I asked them if I could take their picture, but they said no. I was disppointed for it would have been a perfect photo op... but I respected their privacy. Most of the wall is covered with simple phrases and sayings in a number of languages. Most are political statements, but some are advertisements or well wishes to friends and family.

I moved into my flat less than a week after my arrival in Ramallah. It is in the area of Al Masyoun near the Palestinian Legislative Council and the building is shared with 3 other families -- including my landlord. My second night there I was invited to my neighbor's house for iftar (nightly breaking of the Ramadan fast). The people I met were many of the "elite" of Ramallah -- journalists, art historians, etc. They were all smoking and drinking to their hearts delight. At some point guessing everyone's age became the topic of the evening. As usual I was thought of as far younger than I am. One woman said that she thought that I couldn't be older than 18. I appreciate that I look younger; however sometimes I am not sure whether to take offense or be flattered.

The weeks following this were spent getting to know the ins and outs of Ramallah. At first I took a taxi to and from work; however once I figured out where everything was I started walking and have been doing so since. It takes about 15-20 minutes for me to walk to work and 30 to walk back home because I take the "scenic route" through the city center. The downtown area is wonderful... so bustling and full of life. I love to go down there and just people watch and smell the air -- which consists of the sweet scent of nargila drifting outside from the coffee shops, and the savoury scent of falafel and kebab from the corner stands. One night during Ramadan I was walking around and I suddently heard the sound of cymbols and drums. I followed the sound to what looked like a small procession of people in the street who were holding torches, playing drums while dancing and singing. I wasn't sure what was happening; however I of course followed the procession until its end a few blocks later. That same evening there was a live performance in the street by an Islamic singing group. They had a side street blocked off and chairs set up. I stood there and drank my Arabic coffee in awe of the fact that I was able to witness this.